Ski School

A Beginner’s Guide to the Austrian Alps

Walch's Rote Wand Gourmet Hotel
Walch’s Rote Wand Gourmet Hotel — Lech am Arlberg, Austria

Five Alpine villages and twelve Tyrolean hotels anchor our entry-level primer on where to ski and stay in Austria.

By Manon Tomzig
Journalist and travel writer, Tablet contributor

Skip down to the hotels.

We admit, December is a touch late in the season to be telling you where to go for an Austrian ski vacation. Finding a room at a top ski hotel at this point is a challenge worthy of a Double Black Diamond. If you haven’t booked yet, you’re probably not an expert in the region, which is why our beginner’s guide is perfect for you. Don’t give up hope, we have a bevy of amazing accommodation options in the Alps and throughout Austria.

But first, some quick summaries of five of the top ski regions in the Austrian Alps, plus a look at twelve of the most storied hotels in all of Tyrol.

ST. ANTON AM ARLBERG:
Nestled in the far west of Austria, not far from Davos, at the crossroads of Italy, Switzerland, Germany, and Liechtenstein, St. Anton am Arlberg is considered a cradle of alpine skiing. Hannes Schneider, a pioneer in ski instruction, taught here in the early 1900s and helped popularize the sport worldwide. The village is located in a majestic valley surrounded by rugged, mountainous terrain. Above the typical Tyrolean chalets and contemporary hotels rises a vast ski area with steep slopes, ideal for experienced skiers. The sporty and cosmopolitan atmosphere takes on a festive turn after the slopes close.

See our entire selection of luxury and boutique hotels in St. Anton

KITZBÜHEL:
Unlike other resorts surrounded by towering peaks, Kitzbühel, not far from Salzburg, enjoys a more undulating landscape. The former mining town dates back to the Middle Ages, and is the epitome of a Tyrolean alpine village — its cobblestone streets, pastel-colored facades, and Gothic churches give its historic center a romantic feel. Renowned restaurants, elegant boutiques, and high-end hotels make it a luxurious and refined destination, popular with wealthy Europeans. It hosts the Hahnenkamm Races every year, one of the most challenging events in the Alpine Ski World Cup, but its ski area is accessible to skiers of all levels.

See our entire selection of luxury and boutique hotels in Kitzbühel

Post Lech Arlberg
Post Lech Arlberg — Lech am Arlberg, Austria

SÖLDEN:
Sölden is the ideal resort for an extended ski season. Its two glaciers located in the Ötztal Valley, one of the highest in Austria, guarantee enough snow for skiing from October to May in a spectacular setting. It’s no wonder the filmmakers of Spectre chose these landscapes for James Bond’s Austrian adventures. This formerly agricultural valley became a must-visit ski destination in the 20th century, and while it may not have the village charm of Kitzbühel, it fulfills its essential function by offering everything skiers need: guaranteed snow, a vast ski area for all levels, modern facilities, and a lively nightlife.

See our entire selection of luxury and boutique hotels in Sölden

ZELL AM SEE:
It is primarily for its incomparable landscape that Zell am See, located an hour south of Salzburg, is among the most popular Alpine villages. Situated on the shores of Lake Zell, facing the Schmittenhöhe mountains, it enjoys an enchanting panorama combining frozen shores, jagged peaks, and dense forests. This geographical location provides access to the Kaprun glacier and borders a ski area perfectly suited for families. The village is also ideal for non-skiers who can enjoy a spa, lakeside walks, and a historic town center with colorful Tyrolean architecture dating back to the 8th century.

See our entire selection of luxury and boutique hotels in Zell am See

Bio-Hotel Stanglwirt
Bio-Hotel Stanglwirt — Kitzbühel, Austria

LECH AM ARLBERG:
Thanks to its high-altitude location at the northern edge of the Alps, Lech enjoys exceptional snow conditions and direct access to the White Ring, the longest ski circuit in the world. Established in the Middle Ages, the village, which remained isolated for centuries, has preserved its elegant wooden and stone buildings, now protected by strict legislation. Surrounded by magnificent scenery and vast, pristine meadows, it has become a favorite destination for aristocratic families drawn to its authentic, intimate atmosphere, and to the discreet luxury of its hotels, boutiques, and cafés.

See our entire selection of luxury and boutique hotels in Lech

Walch’s Rote Wand Gourmet Hotel

Lech am Arlberg, Austria

Walch's Rote Wand Gourmet Hotel

Tucked away high in the mountain state of Vorarlberg is where you’ll find a most unusual resort inn, the Walch’s Rote Wand — a classic centuries-old Alpine inn, which beneath its absolutely traditional surface has been cleverly modernized, renovated in a light, contemporary style. Instead of heavy timbers the rooms are minimalist, in white Austrian maple, simply furnished and well-lit by the sun.

Post Lech Arlberg

Lech am Arlberg, Austria

Post Lech Arlberg

Family-owned for over 80 years, you might imagine the Post Lech Arlberg would be a rather traditional sort of place, and you would be entirely correct. But you don’t get to stay at the top of the hospitality business by staying frozen in time. Here you’ll find lavish, classically-styled rooms, complete with ornate carved-wood furniture, but in suspiciously fine condition.

Grand Tirolia Kitzbühel

Kitzbühel, Austria

Grand Tirolia Kitzbühel

The Kitzbühel Alps are the postcard-perfect backdrop for Grand Tirolia, an upscale hotel with a diverse roster of entertainment and experiences. The alpine ski circuit takes top priority, but the après scene (champagne, DJ sets, a jazz club) more than holds its own, too. Even beyond high season, the staff goes to great lengths to enrich stays with a top-notch golf course, stunning treks, and all sorts of water sports.

The Cōmodo

Bad Gastein, Austria

The Comodo

The Austrian alpine resort town of Bad Gastein was once among Europe’s most exclusive destinations — and after a period out of the limelight it’s in the middle of a kind of renaissance. Emblematic of this new era is the Cōmodo, a mid-century hotel refurbished for a hip new generation of mountain travelers, taking its stylistic inspiration from Sixties modernism and classic Art Deco.

Hotel Tannenhof

St. Anton am Arlberg, Austria

Hotel Tannenhof

The century-old Hotel Tannenhof might be the most famous historic hotel in the town of St. Anton am Arlberg, but that’s not to say its present-day appeal is built on nostalgia. A thorough reconstruction has left its interiors looking contemporary. Today’s Tannenhof is a remarkably luxurious affair, containing a mere seven suites, as well as a luxe little spa and a Two-MICHELIN-Star restaurant.

Bio-Hotel Stanglwirt

Kitzbühel, Austria

Bio-Hotel Stanglwirt

Built with native pine and run on hydropower, the 400-year-old Bio-Hotel Stanglwirt was sustainable long before such a thing was fashionable. Generations of well-to-do European families have retreated to the elegant lodge in the Austrian Alps and, more recently, a wave of namedrop-worthy celebrities in pursuit of fresh air and mountain scenery.

Eriro

Ehrwald, Austria

Eriro

This former cottage and inn turned mountain retreat sits at an elevation of 1,550 meters at the foot of the Zugspitze Mountain, and higher than any other hotel in the area. Eriro is accessible only by cable car during ski season, and snowcat out of season. Now owned by three local couples, the hotel has been sensitively transformed to introduce guests to a slower way of living and foster a connection with nature.

Naturhotel Forsthofgut

Leogang, Austria

Naturhotel Forsthofgut

For four centuries and five generations, the Schmucks have been quietly beautifying Naturhotel Forsthofgut, their alpine hideaway just west of Leogang. The extensive spa includes multiple aquatic environments and relaxation areas. Rooms and suites are split between several buildings and feature cozy blonde wood, minimalist alpine decor, and furnished balconies to take in the stunning views.

Hotel Weisses Roessl

Kitzbühel, Austria

Hotel Weisses Roessl

Dating from the 17th century, this luxury hotel in the center of Kitzbühel is not just for skiers and golfers – the spa includes an indoor pool, beauty, massage and a sauna for those looking for a gentler pace. Diners who like a side order of fashion with their food will be delighted to learn that the hotel hosts an outpost of Japanese restaurant Zuma.

Hideaway Hotel Montestyria

Mariazell, Austria

Hideaway Hotel Montestyria Chalets & Suiten

Hideaway Hotel Montestyria Chalets & Suiten dares to depart from the Alpine-lodge norm, to impressive results. As its full name suggests, the hotel is made up of six chalets plus an additional two suites in the main house. Their modern construction leaves them free to explore modern interiors, and inside you’ll find a hybrid of boutique-influenced contemporary design and classic Alpine materials.

Family Nature Resort Moar Gut

Grossarl, Austria

Family Nature Resort Moar Gut

What’s Moar Gut than an alpine resort with a spectacular panorama and an emphasis on whole-family activities and accommodations? From bucolic treks through Austria’s Großarl valley to a dedicated trampoline room to a petting zoo with 16 Icelandic horses, it’s an all-inclusive, all-encompassing whirlwind. There’s even a “baby spa” — not to mention extensive grown-up spa facilities and a smorgasbord of swimming options.

Hotel Almhof Schneider

Lech am Arlberg, Austria

Hotel Almhof Schneider

There’s the phrase “family jewel”, and then there’s Almhof Schneider — this converted farmhouse has been in the family for over 500 years, and an alpine hotel for nearly a century. It’s the type of place multiple generations use for ski-centric reunions, nestled not far from where downhill skiing as a sport was invented. Inside, the vintage blonde wood and antler-forward décor get a welcome jolt from an eclectic array of contemporary artwork.