Champagne is famous for its sparkling wines, but this region in northeast France should also be known for its medieval treasures. La Maison de Rhodes brings both things together under two roofs.
By Manon Tomzig
Journalist and travel writer, Tablet contributor
Book La Maison de Rhodes on Tablet Hotels.
Located in the heart of the Champagne vineyards, the city of Troyes has an extraordinary peculiarity: its historic center, delimited by ramparts built in the Middle Ages, takes the shape of a Champagne cork. A striking coincidence for this magnificently preserved medieval city. Within this cork lies another singularity: La Maison de Rhodes, a 12th-century building, formerly home to the Knights Templar — soldier monks, essentially — now a luxury hotel.
The modern story begins with Dominique Boisseau: in 1975, this Parisian, passionate about the heritage of Troyes, stumbled upon a medieval gem. “I walked down this street and saw a pile of ruins for sale. I was lucky enough to be able to go up to the first floor, and there I discovered an exceptional roof structure. I’d never seen one like it.” While the city planned to raze the building to make it a parking lot, Dominique Boisseau decided to pool his savings to buy this architectural marvel.
Years of restoration and discovery followed. It’s difficult to precisely date the building’s origins — the timber-framed architecture and half-timbered facade are typical of the region — but the owner is sure of one thing: it dates back to at least the 15th century and served, among other things, as a living space for the monks attached to the neighboring cathedral. Boisseau moved in with his family and decided to transform the barns into hotel rooms in 1995, calling it Le Champ des Oiseaux.
Ten years later, his son, a hotelier, took a gamble and acquired the neighboring house to expand the family project. And thus, a sister hotel, La Maison de Rhodes was born. The origins of this second building are even older. The foundations date back to the 12th century, and a fireplace plaque indicates that it was once a house of the Knights Templar, a powerful Catholic military order tasked with protecting pilgrims during the Crusades. Rich and influential, they owned bases like this one across Europe, which served to welcome knights and pilgrims, manage land and property, recruit members, and organize the logistics of the Holy Wars.
Restoring and maintaining these two properties represents a colossal challenge, one the Boisseaus are up for. The family is committed to using period materials and craftsmanship techniques: original timber framing and fireplaces, stone, lime, and exposed antique wood to respect the half-timbered architecture, handcrafted tiles in the bathrooms, and unique antique objects found in auction rooms. The labyrinthine layout with thick walls and narrow corridors immerses visitors, who tend to get lost, intoxicated by the atmosphere.
Three years ago, Dominique Boisseau’s daughter and her husband, both hoteliers, took over the two hotels. Since then, they’ve shared the history of the place with their guests every day. “People love it. That’s why they come. We also give advice on what to do and what to see. What our guests do outside of the hotel is as important to us as their experience inside,” emphasizes Julie Boisseau. Between Champagne tastings and visits to the region’s many châteaux and churches, they’re never short of recommendations.
Scroll down for a full FAQ about La Maison de Rhodes and Le Champ des Oiseaux.
Nuts & Bolts
A bite-sized breakdown of your most frequently asked questions about La Maison de Rhodes and Le Champ des Oiseaux.
Who comes here?
Many couples and individuals return regularly. They are passionate about gastronomy and history. They pay attention to detail, both in the personalized service and in the carefully designed decor, featuring unique objects.
When’s the best time to visit?
In winter, visitors enjoy the cozy atmosphere by a fireplace. In summer, they enjoy an aperitif and dine outside, surrounded by the Champagne facades and the cathedral overlooking the garden of La Maison de Rhodes. They can also enjoy the swimming pool in the city center.
What else is there to do in the area?
In the Middle Ages, Troyes was the capital of the Counts of Champagne, who made their region a key commercial, cultural, and economic hub. Tied to the monarchy, they left traces of their wealth: castles, Romanesque and Gothic churches, and monasteries. Beyond Troyes, visiting the wine estates and tasting wines in the Côte des Bar region is a must. The city is also a 1.5-hour drive from the famous Champagne cellars of Reims. A city of hosiery, the origin of its factory outlets, Troyes is also known throughout the country for its clothing boutiques.
Best room for a solo traveler? A couple? A family?
Le Champ des Oiseaux features feminine decor, with smaller, cozier rooms than La Maison de Rhodes, which is more modern and features large, minimalist rooms. Of the twelve rooms at Le Champ des Oiseaux, the Vert Galant room is ideal for a single person. La Maison de Rhodes has eleven rooms, including the Chevalier room, the house’s emblematic piece and ideal for a couple. It is decorated with stained-glass windows, features a superb stone bathroom with a jacuzzi, and enjoys a garden view. Its Évêché room is ideal for families. Located beneath the roof structure, it gives the feeling of being in a cabin in the sky.
What’s a design feature I would miss if you didn’t tell me about it?
Among the many architectural details adorning both hotels, the Champ des Oiseaux dining room features a magnificent Gothic fireplace decorated with two lions, which was completely hidden behind a wall when the owner discovered the place. You can also admire a holy water font in the hotel entrance that was found in the building’s foundations.
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Anything to say about sustainability, equality, and community?
The hotel places great importance on the origin of the products it uses. All cleaning products are natural, and in the kitchen, most ingredients come from local organic producers, such as the beer and Champagne from the Aube department. The hotel also makes its own compost. Working closely with numerous restaurateurs, winemakers, and local shops, the owners direct guests to their favorite places.
Are there some standout amenities you’d recommend?
The heated counter-current swimming pool nestled between the stone walls of an interior courtyard, and the spa featuring a sauna and balneotherapy room.
Without further ado, what’s there to eat?
The restaurant shared by both hotels, La Commanderie, offers homemade French cuisine prepared using mostly organic and local products by a chef trained under Alain Ducasse. The salmon gravlax is made by the owner himself, the foie gras is a specialty of the receptionist, the crème caramel is a recipe from the housekeeper, and the secrets of the chestnut and chocolate cream were shared by the owner’s sister. Julie Boisseau also recommends the homemade ratatouille served with baked potatoes.
Tell me about Tablet Plus?
At the time of publishing, La Maison de Rhodes and Le Champ des Oiseaux do not offer Tablet Plus member privileges.
The final word?
La Maison de Rhodes teaches us that the best way to enjoy Champagne is at the source: by the fire, in the authentic setting of its birthplace.
Book La Maison de Rhodes on Tablet Hotels.
