You know Transylvania from the story of Dracula. The Bethlen family story goes back even further, and their new hotel shows why this region is much more than a Halloween punchline.
By Manon Tomzig
Journalist and travel writer, Tablet contributor
Book Bethlen Estates Transylvania on Tablet Hotels.
Before there was Hogwarts, there was Scholomance, a school of black magic in the Carpathian Mountains of Transylvania. The headmaster of the institution was the Devil, and the students, according to Bram Stoker, included none other than Count Dracula himself. You know the story from there — the one about vampires and Van Helsing — but what else do you know about Transylvania?
Did you know Transylvania is possibly King Charles’ favorite place on earth? It’s essentially his second home, where he owns nearly a dozen properties.
Did you know that, far from being dark and haunting, Transylvania is a place of verdant valleys, thick forests and romantic meadows, fairytale castles and fortified churches?
Did you know about the Bethlen family? For centuries, they were among the most influential dynasties in Transylvania. Until they were forced to flee the country.
In Coppola’s Dracula movie, the count tells Mina Harker that he’s crossed oceans of time to find her. The Bethlen family has come just as far. Before Dracula was even born, they built the village of Cris and its extraordinary Renaissance castle. Their impressive lineage includes writers, scientists, and diplomats. Then, when the communists took over in the aftermath of World War II, they lost everything.
Count Nikolaus Bethlen remembers returning from exile as a child and seeing his family’s former estate for the first time. “For my father, visiting the castle was very hard because it had been in the family for 800 years; it was built by the family. After it was expropriated, it fell into a state of disrepair. It got vandalized, the roof started to fall off, they stored potatoes on centuries-old wooden beams and parquet floors.” The entire country had suffered under President Nicolae Ceaușescu’s authoritarian regime: “Seeing the hardships, the difficult circumstances people lived in, was definitely an awakening for us children. At the same time, the hospitality of the people we visited was incredible, because they didn’t have a lot, but all they did have they were happy to share with us.”
Aside from the castle, which was eventually returned to cousins, the family no longer owned any of their old property in Transylvania. So in 2008, Count Nikolaus Bethlen decided to acquire the caretaker’s house, which had once belonged to the estate. He then acquired a second property in the surrounding area. Over the years, he managed to acquire at least ten more properties, including farmland and forests located in and around Cris. He carefully selected the buildings, based on their historical and cultural importance, and renovated them to preserve this cultural heritage.
“Under Ceaușescu, the hardship was so tough that very few renovations were being done. So you would go to Transylvania, even after the fall of communism, and you would see villages that were just how they used to be a hundred years ago. No plastic, no bright colors, everything authentic, with wooden materials and clay tiles,” recalls the hotelier. “Every house has a different story, and you need to renovate it so that it’s not trying to be something else.”
In order to revive the village and introduce the riches of Transylvania to visitors from around the world, the Count decided to transform the acquired properties into a hotel. Today, guests can stay in a traditional 18th-century Saxon cottage, in a former hay barn on the Bethlen estate, or in that 300-year-old Caretaker’s House, located a stone’s throw from the castle. And Count Nikolaus Bethlen doesn’t plan to stop there: “There’s also a manor house that used to be part of the estate that we’re going to renovate next. We are currently renovating one large building that used to be the German school of the village.” This sizable property will encompass six bedrooms, a spa, sauna, gym, swimming pool and, at the center of the project, a gourmet restaurant.
With the arrival of visitors, the village comes back to life: “A very important aspect of the project was to actually provide an economic impetus and activity for the village. With 15 employees we are now its biggest employer. It has had a positive impact on people because they see it affects them directly, but also emotionally, they are proud to showcase their land, their village, their home.”
The hotelier’s objective is not to make money but, like his father before him, Count Miklos Bethlen (who created a charitable foundation to support the renovation of the castle and school scholarship programs), to return the fruits to the local community: “Once profitable, I think we can give back through initiatives. We already support the local church and the local school and we have many more ideas.” Dracula would never.
Scroll down for a full FAQ about Bethlen Estates Transylvania.
Nuts & Bolts
A bite-sized breakdown of your most frequently asked questions about Bethlen Estates Transylvania.
Who comes here?
All of the Bethlen Estates’ guests share a desire for authenticity and meaningful experiences. They are curious travelers, often well-traveled, who are looking for something more meaningful than just a night in a hotel: they want to discover Transylvania through its architecture, food, landscapes and stories.
When’s the best time to visit?
Autumn is the best season. In October, the colors are extraordinary. The hills are covered with golden, red and dark green tones and the morning mist heightens the region’s mysterious atmosphere. The harvest – apples, plums, pumpkins, root vegetables, honey – brings the richness of Transylvania to life in both food and atmosphere through its fairs and markets with fewer tourists around.
What else is there to do in the area?
The area has a wide variety of cultural and natural sights. The picnics in the wildflower meadows are the most popular among guests, as they combine food, nature and serenity. E-biking through the Saxon villages, wine tastings, and guided tours of the estate also rank high, while adventure seekers love the hot air balloon rides, truffle hunting, horseback riding or horse carriage rides through the forests. In the winter, guests can go skiing and discover the glacier lakes of the nearby mountains.
Best room for a solo traveler? A couple? A family?
Any of the capacious and cozy bedrooms of the Corner Barn decorated with earthy colors, organic patterns, and natural textures would be a good fit for a solo traveler. With its private living room, library, snug sofas and open fire the Depner House is perfect for a couple. Families will enjoy the library, private heated pool and sanarium of the Caretaker’s House.
What’s a design feature I would miss if you didn’t tell me about it?
Every house has its own story and character and was built for a different purpose. No two houses are identical. Among the stand-out features are the original wooden beams, the traditional tiled stoves in the Caretaker’s House and the Corner Barn, and the cast-iron staircase in the Depner House.
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Anything to say about sustainability, equality, and community?
Bringing back to life abandoned Saxon houses. Creating economic activity in a rural area. Serving the community. Those missions are at the heart of the Bethlen Estates. The hotel also uses local artisans for renovation and sources regional ingredients for its restaurant.
Are there some standout amenities you’d recommend?
In the Caretaker’s House, the heated pool is surrounded by a lush garden, a view on the forest, and opens onto a terrace.
Without further ado, what’s there to eat?
Run by chef Róbert Tordai, the restaurant’s menu shifts with the seasons. It celebrates Transylvania’s terroir and culinary tradition while using contemporary techniques. Think home raised chicken leg filled with wild bear sausage, paired with seasonal garden vegetables and a forest mushroom sauce. In autumn, mushrooms are celebrated through various dishes such as mushroom ravioli, served with house-smoked ricotta, a velvety sausage cream and buffalo buttermilk.
In the original cellars of Count Janos Bethlen’s Manor House, guests can sample local wines and home-made brandies made from pears and apples from the family’s orchards.
Tell me about Tablet Plus?
At the time of publishing, Bethlen Estates Transylvania offers Tablet Plus member privileges, including a room upgrade at check-in (upon availability), complimentary bottle of wine, a welcome treat in your room on arrival, and a $25 USD food and beverage credit.
The final word?
For too long, much of the world has only known Transylvania as a setting for horror. A Halloween punchline. The Bethlen family is correcting the narrative. In bringing their own story back to life — and sharing it with guests — they’re showing the world why Transylvania deserves a new kind of attention.
Book Bethlen Estates Transylvania on Tablet Hotels.
