The story of the fire that brought down Southern Ocean Lodge is a harrowing one. Now, rebuilt and reopened, the Kangaroo Island icon is once again what it was before: a genuine bucket list hotel.
By Manon Tomzig
Journalist and travel writer, Tablet contributor
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In January 2020, as the coronavirus began its journey around the world, the Southern Ocean Lodge burnt to the ground, reduced to ashes during a historically catastrophic wildfire season dubbed Black Summer. Virtually nothing of the hotel survived, except for its mascot: a kangaroo named SOL.
SOL is usually first to greet you when you arrive at Southern Ocean Lodge. Unless he’s napping in his office. Soft-coated and curious, he is the master of the house and a symbol of resilience — first rescued by the hotel’s team in 2008 after his mother was killed by a car, and now, living through the bushfires. Not every animal was so lucky. Kangaroo Island has been called Australia’s “Galapagos Island,” and with at least a third of the island burned, it’s been reported that up to 25,000 koalas were killed, along with countless other species.
Baillie Lodges Chief Operating Officer Craig Bradbery vividly recalls that day in January: as the flames progressed rapidly across the island, “we made a decision that morning to evacuate all guests and staff, apart from six staff members that stayed on site (…) when it became apparent that fire was coming towards the lodge, they activated the fire suppression system and then went into a bunker. They emerged after the fire had passed and were collected by the local rural fire service.” When they emerged from the bunker, the Southern Ocean Lodge had disappeared. “Everyone was devastated.”
Without delay, an outpouring of solidarity emerged from the hotel industry, the media, and private individuals who loved the place. “We had past guests writing to us, wanting to donate money to causes on the island, people offering our staff jobs and temporary accommodation”, recalls Bradbery. This support immediately convinced owners James and Hayley Baillie of the need to rebuild. “And not just for us, but Southern Ocean Lodge is a really integral part of the tourism community on the island. It supports a lot of businesses, whether it’s wineries or food producers or transport services. So it really reminded us how much that lodge was valued as part of that community.”
Friends and acquaintances took turns clearing and replanting. It took two years to start rebuilding, and another two to complete it. And the task is not an easy one. Built on a cliff on the south coast of Kangaroo Island, the hotel stands at the very edge of the world. Facing Antarctica. An isolation much appreciated by visitors, but which represents an architectural challenge. Fortunately, many of the people involved in creating the original lodge have stepped forward to rebuild it, starting with its architect Max Pritchard, a native of the island whose creations are designed in harmony with their environment. Renowned Australian designer Khai Liew also recreated numerous pieces of furniture before his death. Artist Janine McIntosh returned to the island to once again decorate the hotel walls with her mandalas, works of art made from natural elements such as shells and leaves woven together.
When it reopened, four years after the fires, the Southern Ocean Lodge seemed to have never disappeared. “Guests who’ve been there in the first version and now have come back, when they first walked in, it’s very difficult to comprehend that it’s a different lodge”, laughs Craig Bradbery. The iconic great room has been rebuilt almost identically. The huge picture windows offer a 180-degree view of the ocean and regenerated natural surroundings. The house’s second Kangaroo, this one a sculpture made from recycled metal, also survived the fire.
But on closer inspection, some things are different. It was essential to adapt to climate change and prevent future fires. So a wild buffer zone was created around the lodge, landscaped with over 45,000 fire-resistant native succulents. And even if they had to rebuild, the hoteliers decided to build back “even better.” Starting with the rooms, reoriented to take full advantage of the view. “Every suite has a stunning view straight down the coastline so you can lay in your bed in the morning, looking down at the waves, and at night look at the stars,” explains Craig Bradbery. “One of my favorite things is just to sit and watch the view. The ocean changes any minute of the day. It can be calm and beautifully sunny and blue. And then, a storm can sweep in. It gets quite dramatic. And then that disappears and you’ve got rainbows.”
In response to all the help received, the owners of Southern Ocean Lodge were keen to give back. “Just before the reopening, we launched an auction online for our first three night stays and the funds, about 50,000 dollars, went to three local organizations. That inspired us to start a program. We do auctions twice a year.” The hotel also supports a local organization dedicated to protecting the island’s animals. No doubt a SOL idea!
Scroll down for a full FAQ about Southern Ocean Lodge.
Nuts & Bolts
A bite-sized breakdown of your most frequently asked questions about Southern Ocean Lodge.
Who comes here?
Couples and multi-generation families from around the world who come here to enjoy the unique wildlife and landscapes of the Galapagos of Australia as well as the end-of-the-world experience that the lodge offers.
When’s the best time to visit?
Summer (December to February) is the perfect season to enjoy the white sand beaches, turquoise waters and rock pools of the island. Winter (June – August) is the cooler season when the wildlife is very active and the Southern Ocean is at its most dramatic, making it an ideal time to go hiking and explore the islands’ numerous parks.
What else is there to do in the area?
Kangaroo Island has regenerated very well since the 2020 bushfires, to such a point that visitors can barely notice they ever happened. Offering the best of the mainland on a smaller scale, it boasts twenty-one national and conservation parks as well as all the iconic Australian wildlife. Visitors can encounter seals, koalas, kangaroos, sea lions, ospreys, and echidnas. Coastal walks, starting from the hotel’s doorstep, meander through limestone cliffs, sheltered coves, and white powdery beaches.
Best room for a solo traveler? A couple? A family?
Spanning 61 m², and featuring a small fireplace, private terrace, and floor-to-ceiling windows, the Flinders Suite is perfectly suited for a single traveler. The Osprey Suite is ideal for a couple, who will enjoy a walk-in closet, a separate lounge, and an outdoor terrace featuring twin sunbeds along with an infinity-edge pool. A new addition, the four-bedroom suite — the most premium suite — is ideal for a family or a group of friends. It has an incredible location up on a cliff, a little away from the main lodge, not to mention several lounges, plunge pools, and breathtaking 180° coastal views.
What’s a design feature I would miss if you didn’t tell me about it?
Lyre Lyre Pans on Fire is a lyrebird made up of cutlery and pans from the kitchen, which ‘found objects sculptor’ Indiana Jones had reclaimed from the rubble in the days following the fires that razed the original Southern Ocean Lodge. Visitors can find him at the side door that accesses the Coastal Clifftop walk.
Continued below…
Anything to say about sustainability, equality, and community?
The reconstruction of the lodge was an opportunity to increase the level of sustainability. It includes a more sophisticated and powerful solar system designed so that every raindrop that falls on the roof of the building is collected for water supply. A hybrid solar and battery infrastructure allows the lodge to generate its own power. The bushland and coastal wilderness that surrounds Southern Ocean Lodge is protected and the hotel chose to work almost exclusively with local growers and producers.
Are there some standout amenities you’d recommend?
Part of the new lodge is a much more enhanced spa facility with indoor and outdoor hot and cold plunge pools and sauna.
Without further ado, what’s there to eat?
The lodge offers an ever-evolving menu that changes with the seasons based on local and regional produce. Crayfish is one of the highlights. It comes from the island, farmed by the stone mason who created the stone walls of the lodge while the barramundi is farmed by the local high school students as part of their curriculum. The chef also uses local honey from the world’s only purebred colony of Ligurian bees. Guests are invited to explore the walk-in wine cellar stacked with more than a thousand bottles sourced from South Australia and Kangaroo Island itself. The hotel offers a guided tasting every second evening highlighting a different region of South Australia’s wineries.
Tell me about Tablet Plus?
At the time of publishing, Southern Ocean Lodge is not currently a Tablet Plus participating hotel.
The final word?
Forget, for a second, about the fires and the devastation. Forget about the community and humanity required to rebuild. Forget all that came before. Just take one look at this place — this architectural marvel staring down off the southern edge of the earth. This is what a true bucket list hotel stay looks like. What more do you need?
Book Southern Ocean Lodge on Tablet Hotels.
