In the mountains of northern Spain, Solo Palacio is a celebration of wabi-sabi, a condemnation of the pursuit of perfection, a steward of its surroundings, and a thoroughly singular hotel.
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Not only is perfect the enemy of good, it’s the enemy of perfect. When something is constructed with low tolerances, intended to be razor-straight and utterly flawless, any ding or crack or smudge can send its aesthetic value plummeting off a cliff. When something is created with the expectation that it will receive regular use and evolve accordingly, it can suffer the slings and arrows of time and humanity and endure it all with grace.
This is the Japanese concept of wabi-sabi, taking pleasure in imperfection and impermanence, and it’s a concept adopted by Spain’s Solo Palacio.
“Wabi means ‘time makes things beautiful, not old.’ While sabi is the thoughtful, economic use of raw, solid materials. That’s how the palace was built and that’s how we created the hotel.” That’s Carlos Diaz, the Madrid-based hotelier behind Solo Palacio. Only four families have lived in this medieval palace since its construction in the 15th century, a number that’s increasing exponentially now that Diaz has converted it into a wonderfully singular boutique hotel. Surrounded by the untouched landscapes of the Las Ubiñas nature park, Solo Palacio is in its own universe. “From the hotel you can’t see any construction, anything touched by man,” Diaz explains. Only the high, lush Asturias mountains, partially covered in snow. “That’s very rare in the world,” marvels the Madrilenian.
It was when Diaz stumbled across a Russian website dedicated to the sale of exceptional properties for the country’s tycoons that he found his rare jewel. “I started to look for a place resilient against climate change with access to water and surrounded by nature.” From the beginning, a luxury experience was always the goal, as it brings Diaz more funds to finance environmental projects. Deeply concerned by global warming to the point of not sleeping at night, he wants to help protect his country, which has been plagued by droughts, wildfires, and just recently, destructive flooding. The Japanese concept of wabi-sabi fit perfectly with his desire for a simpler life, in harmony with nature.
Nevertheless, Diaz wants to prove that from simple things, even imperfect ones, the exceptional can be born. Stone, cement, wood… The palace has been entirely renovated using natural materials. “We worked with archeologists. We worked with woodcrafters. We trained people to work with stone. Everything is handmade. Our kitchen is entirely made in cement.” Three years of hard work went into the renovation, overseen by its artistic director, Sofía Tejerina Mata, recipient of this year’s ADG Laus Award. “She loves details. It was painful. I hated her. But it was definitely worth it,” laughs Diaz. Each piece of furniture is unique. Some belonged to the palace’s former owners, others were imported from Asia, and to Diaz’s sheer delight, many more were found at antique shops. “Madrid has one of the biggest flea markets in Europe, and everybody there knows us!”
It is perhaps in the rooms, which have preserved traces of their past functions, that wabi is best expressed. Apartment 1 was once used to welcome visitors before they were received by their hosts. Carriages stopped here and luggage was stored. Apartment 2 housed the chapel and retains the majestic character of its high ceilings. Apartment 3 was the servants’ quarters. You can still admire the old ovens from their kitchens.
From your bedroom window, or from the infinity pool, you may catch a glimpse of bears, wolves, and deer. Even more likely, goats. You can sleep easy knowing that, as a guest, you’re directly aiding the preservation of the hotel’s natural surroundings. Diaz has turned Solo Palacio into a non-profit organization, with all proceeds going to local environmental projects, such as the integration of thousands of goats. With their appetite for dry, flammable vegetation, they help prevent forest fires, the main danger to the park. Perfect!
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Nuts & Bolts
A bite-sized breakdown of your most frequently asked questions about Solo Palacio.
Who comes here?
Since Solo Palacio doesn’t accept children under 11, the hotel attracts mostly couples with a passion for elegance and nature. They’re drawn to history, art, and outdoor activities.
When’s the best time to visit?
September to December is when Las Ubiñas Natural Park is at its most beautiful. The beech and oak forests across the valleys turn golden, orange, and red, creating a vibrant landscape against the rugged limestone peaks.
What else is there to do in the area?
Hiking, climbing, kayaking, cycling, caving, and canyoning should keep visitors busy — all in a natural environment rich in flora and fauna, from bears and deer to horses and a variety of birds.
Best room for a solo traveler? A couple? A family?
The solo traveler would enjoy the Solo Cozy 006, an open space with a balcony overlooking the infinity pool. The Solo Loft 001 is ideal for couples; the former carriageway has been transformed into a romantic room with views of the infinity pool. Families will feel most at home in the Solo Unique 004, the marquis’ quarters, spanning over 120 m² and offering views of Las Ubiñas Natural Park.
What’s a design feature I would miss if you didn’t tell me about it?
The lighting was meticulously designed with special attention to color temperature, aperture, intensity, and placement to perfectly complement the natural light and create a warm, inviting atmosphere.
Anything to say about sustainability, equality, and community?
All profits are dedicated to protecting the surrounding forests. One of the hotel’s goals is to collaborate with the local community to promote sustainable cultural practices. The hotel also proudly displays exactly what each penny you pay goes towards, from personnel, to operational expenses, to taxes, to social projects. That’s right, nothing to the owners.
Are there some standout amenities you’d recommend?
The wellness area. Open all year round, it includes a sauna with views of the natural park, an outdoor jacuzzi, an infinity pool, and massage services.
Without further ado, what’s there to eat?
Solo Palacio has partnered with Monte, an intimate Michelin-star restaurant in a nearby village just minutes from the hotel. The hotel serves dishes crafted by Monte’s chef, such as confit and roasted suckling pig leg with roasted apple cream. The Monte Cheesecake is also a must-try.
Tell me about Tablet Plus?
At the time of publishing, Solo Palacio offers Tablet Plus privileges, including a room upgrade at check-in (upon availability), guaranteed 2pm late check-out, a lovely welcome treat in your room on arrival, and a 20 EUR hotel credit per room, per day.
The final word?
Some stark white high-design hotels can make you feel like an untidy intruder. Solo Palacio makes you feel at home.
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