In the farmhouses of a 12th-century monastery, in the mountains of Spain’s Montsant Natural Park, one of the world’s greatest winery hotels strives for peace, silence, and the perfect Priorat.
When you arrive at Terra Dominicata — after a two-hour drive through the mountainous Catalonian countryside — you’re sat down, softened up with a cocktail, and told everything you cannot do.
“Don’t overuse the shower.”
“Keep lights to a minimum at night.”
“There’s no TV, but there is a large collection of books.”
Chances are, if you’ve made the twisting trek from Barcelona, this is exactly what you want to hear. The restrictions exist for good reason: to save water, to preserve the starry skies, to leave the surrounding animals unperturbed, to let silence reign.
The introductory talk represents a distinctly different strategy than you’ll find at most hotels of Terra Dominicata’s caliber. Even the most rustic of rural gems tend to dazzle with an attitude that no expenses will be spared. Here, luxury is drawn from a desire to balance comfort with absence, and an expectation that guests desire the same.
A History of Silence
That Terra Dominicata exists at all is little short of a miracle. At the center of the vast rock formations and forests that make up the Montsant Natural Park, it is a both a rare base from which to explore the Priorat — among the most lauded wine regions in the world — and a significant piece of Catalan cultural heritage.
The two main hotel buildings are both centuries-old farmhouses, created to facilitate the growing of grapes, olives, and other fruits for the 12th-century monastery up the road. The spirit of the Carthusian monks can still be felt throughout the property, from the original-style exteriors — sober and geometric — made from the same red, ferrous earth of the landscape beyond, to the reverential focus on winemaking, to the premium placed on quiet contemplation.
Inside, though, the decor is lively, contemporary, and even whimsical, with wicker baskets, accent ladders, and shelves that hang like swing sets from the ceiling. The colors are neutral, bathed in sunlight, and open to views of vineyards and hills.
The restaurant serves local Spanish favorites, and the swimming pool and spa are beautiful spaces. But remember, the latter is faithful to the minimalist sensibilities of the hotel. This is no hedonistic assemblage of bodies, but a reserved area hidden among the olive trees, designed for individuals to book certain rooms (sauna, whirlpool, cold shower) by the hour.
A Holy Focus on Wine and Sustainability
Treks through the park, visits to vineyards, and the chance to experience local villages and historic sites are all on offer through the hotel concierge. But the winery — with its own three vintages — is the standout activity at Terra Dominicata.
The vineyards of Priorat are arranged on terraces and slopes that are among the steepest in Europe, set on volcanic soil strewn with flakes of slate and quartzite. It’s a soil poor in organic materials but rich in minerals — and through these harsh conditions, it produces a wine that’s intense and concentrated, that makes more out of less.
It will come as no surprise that sustainability is paramount at Terra Dominicata. So much so that work on the hotel stopped cold when a family of eagles nested in the middle of the site. Construction was halted for three months (enough time for the eggs to hatch) before resuming. In light of that anecdote, forgoing a long shower is a fair ask.
If you can, try to book Room 22. Behind a bookshelf, this suite hides a genuine underground corridor once used as an escape route in case of danger. Today, it’s a passageway with a one-in-a-million entrance to the restaurant — and a reminder of the remarkable history and authenticity of this place.
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