{"id":70380,"date":"2019-08-09T21:11:21","date_gmt":"2019-08-10T01:11:21","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/magazine.tablethotels.com\/en\/?p=70380"},"modified":"2023-03-29T10:52:45","modified_gmt":"2023-03-29T14:52:45","slug":"the-hippie-trail","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/magazine.tablethotels.com\/en\/2019\/08\/the-hippie-trail\/","title":{"rendered":"The Hippie Trail"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Imagine a teenager deciding to hitchhike their way from London to Kabul. Now imagine thousands of them. What sounds crazy for 2019 was happening with surprising frequency in 1969, on a route known as the Hippie Trail.<\/em><\/h4>\n

Between the late 1950s and 1970s, young people took to the road en masse to visit what we now know as some of the more closed-off and dangerous locations in the world. Today, the so-called \u201chippie trail\u201d sounds wild, daring, and practically inconceivable, but fifty years ago the trail flourished, as intrepid travelers departed Western Europe and made their way overland through countries like Turkey, Syria, Iran, Afghanistan \u2014 going as far as India and Thailand.<\/p>\n

The hippies’ eastbound treks are a funhouse mirror version of their contemporaries\u2019 brutal journeys to Vietnam \u2014 and today they stand as a tragic alternate history of the now war-torn places they often visited, highlighting for a contemporary audience how enchanting these regions were, and could be again, for global tourism and cultural appreciation.<\/p>\n

In its time, though, the trail, like the hippie movement itself, was a form of rebellion against the strict conformist culture imposed by the Greatest Generation. Their parents took jets to Paris and Rome. They took a VW bus to Tehran and Kathmandu.<\/p>\n

That, and drugs.<\/p>\n\n

\"Freak
Freak Street in Kathmandu, so-named for the hippies who flocked there, as it stood in 2009.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

Eastern Promises<\/h3>\n

The earliest inspirations for the trail can be traced back to the beatniks. Jack Kerouac and William Burroughs are sometimes lauded<\/a> as the first inspiration to the trail-ers, coming to Morocco as they did in the late \u201850s. But had he not even moved an inch from his desk, plenty would have been influenced<\/a> by Kerouac\u2019s philosophy, espoused in On The Road<\/em>, that travel itself could provide inner revelations and unmask outer truths about the world around them.<\/p>\n

In the 1960s, as Beats gave way to hippies, the growing popularity of Buddhism and Hinduism bent the trail eastward. See, for the most famous example, the Beatles\u2019 influential trip to see Maharishi Mahesh Yogi in India.<\/p>\n\n

\"Kumaon
The area of Kasar Devi ridge, also called Crank’s Ridge thanks to some colorful guests.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

Another Indian hotspot called Crank\u2019s Ridge attracted even more celebrities<\/a>, having earned an interesting reputation as a \u201cpower centre,\u201d due to what we’ll sum up as a type of blah-blah Van Allen belt blah-blah metaphysical pseudoscience. Everyone from Timothy Leary to Cat Stevens visited, with one local remembering the foreigner \u201cwho used to sing a lot with his friend and [roam] around the area with his guitar.\u201d That was Bob Dylan.<\/p>\n\n

Not all of the travelers wore long hair and listened to rock and roll. Not all of them read Allen Ginsburg\u2019s ode in The Atlantic<\/a><\/em> to smoking legal marijuana in India. And not all of them did drugs themselves. But in general \u2014 and with the trail, as sprawling as it was, you have to generalize \u2014 they did.<\/p>\n\n

\"Dylan
Bob Dylan and Allen Ginsberg in 1975, together for Dylan’s Rolling Thunder Revue show.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

There Will Be Drugs<\/h3>\n

In some ways, the search for drugs seemed not to hinder the experience, but to actually facilitate interaction between the cultures. Stay with us.<\/p>\n

In one of the few attempts at a comprehensive history of the trail, \u201cThe Hippie Trail<\/a>\u201d by authors Sharif Gemie and Brian Ireland, you can find a 1967 Daily Express<\/em> report estimating that a quarter of the pilgrims were addicted to drugs; the Observer<\/em> in turn described \u201can annual flood of tens of thousands of young people in search of Afghan opium and heroin.\u201d<\/p>\n

The authors call these reports sensationalized, and it\u2019s hard not to sense a tabloid\u2019s desire to paint hippies as no-goods out to destroy respectable society. Still, drugs played a role on the trail, and were especially available in certain locations. As Gemie and Ireland record, one traveler remembered that \u201cthere were many… who had made Afghanistan their final destination, because of the abundance and cheapness of the marijuana.\u201d<\/p>\n

The instinct might be to condemn the drugs as representative of a superficial experience, one that clouds any other travel objectives. Not all travelers did drugs or sought them out. Some were properly terrified by the attitudes of some the governments on the trail towards drugs, including Iran, which actually displayed an exhibit of assorted failed smuggling devices on their side of the border with Afghanistan. And if you’ve seen Midnight Express<\/em>, you’ll be familiar with Turkey’s zero-tolerance drug policies.<\/p>\n

But looking for drugs, as crass it might sound, led to communication and shared experiences.<\/p>\n

\u201cMany travelers felt intimidated by their new, strange surroundings,\u201d write Gemie and Ireland, \u201cand therefore stuck to the coach, to their group, or to the cafes and hotels frequented by a white, traveling clientele.\u201d Quite the opposite, \u201cit was the dope-smokers who went further, who took initiatives, learned key phrases in foreign languages, met local people, and then followed them through winding lanes and dark alleys.\u201d<\/p>\n

You had to learn some language, take some risks, and meet some locals \u2014 admirable goals that weren\u2019t always in the sole service of scoring. For the most intrepid, living as down-to-earth as you could was something of a contest.<\/p>\n\n

\"Hendrix
Jimi Hendrix took a famous trip to Essaouira, Morocco where a cafe<\/a> still bears his name.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

Fear and Loathing on the Trail<\/h3>\n

In 1957, the Indiaman Bus Company likely became the first business to offer trips from London to Bombay, the popularity of which led to copycats like Swagman Tours and the iconic Magic Bus, shuttling hippies and anyone else to and from the various trail hotspots across the Middle East and the Indian subcontinent.<\/p>\n

Whether it\u2019s true or not, a trail-er might consider a fellow traveler on a coach bus as experiencing the world more as a \u201ctourist,\u201d being shepherded from experience to experience, sometimes confined to government-approved hotels. \u201cRiding along in the bus with not so much as a pothole to jolt us into reality was almost like watching television,\u201d wrote<\/a> author John Worrall, on the trail to Kathmandu in \u201872.<\/p>\n

More adventurous explorers drove themselves, or took trains, and plenty also hitchhiked. Their ultimate goal: be a \u201ctraveler,\u201d not a \u201ctourist.\u201d It was natural for them to resent the bus-bound, even if the guided tours often acted as a starting point where a traveler gained the self-assurance to branch out and do the rest of the journey themselves.<\/p>\n

But without a coach bus, and with guidebooks hardly in existence until the 1970s, how could you know where to begin? How could you know of any dangers to avoid? With so many on the trail, travelers relied on word of mouth at common pit stops \u2014 \u201clodging houses, campsites, cafes, teashops and borders\u201d \u2014 for information. A community had formed, and in some cases, had threatened to destroy the very thing it professed to adore.<\/p>\n\n

\"Kerouac\"
Kerouac and the Beat Generation, the inspiration of many on the trail.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

In Tangiers, Morocco, visits from all the big-name Beat writers like Jack Kerouac, William S. Burroughs, and Tennessee Williams likely lured the hippies to the city. The Beats themselves were drawn to Tangiers by American expat writer Paul Bowles, whose friend Mohammed Mrabet lamented the hippies’ attraction to people like Kerouac and Burroughs. In an interview with Washington Post<\/a> <\/em>, he blamed their writing for attracting \u201ccrazy people\u201d and \u201cdrug users.\u201d<\/p>\n

One of those writings was Burroughs\u2019 Naked Lunch<\/em>, which itself describes a scene from Tangiers that seems to confirm the basis of Mrabet\u2019s scorn:<\/p>\n

\u201cThrough open doors, tables and booths and bars and kitchens and baths, copulating couples on rows of brass beds, crisscross of a thousand hammocks, junkies tying up for a shot, opium smokers, hashish smokers, people eating talking bathing, back into a haze of smoke and steam.\u201d<\/p>\n

As a harbinger of the changing character of a city due to tourism, the hippies may have set an unfortunate precedent. Even so, there\u2019s something you can\u2019t help but admire about their life on the trail. At their highest aspiration, they were a community of explorers, inspired by each other\u2019s stories, striving to have the most authentic, life-changing travel experiences possible. It\u2019s something we could all aspire to today.<\/p>\n\n

\"Tehran\"
A scene from Tehran in 1970.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

This Is The End<\/h3>\n

Afghanistan is consistently described as one of the most laid-back spots on the hippie trail. It was such a draw that in 1973, the writers who would eventually launch the Lonely Planet travel guide wrote<\/a> that Kabul was losing its character, in danger of becoming a \u201ctourist trap.\u201d Another described<\/a> the country as evoking the same connotations that \u201cBali or Bhutan\u201d does today. Outside of Kabul, he wrote, \u201ctrue hippies especially enjoyed communing with the giant Buddhas carved out of a hillside in Bamiyan.\u201d<\/p>\n

The Soviet invasion in 1979 ended all of that.<\/p>\n

Strife in the rest of the Middle East ramped up, too, in the late 1970s. The revolution in Iran meant its borders were permanently sealed off from western travelers. One writer put the cultural change best, explaining<\/a> that \u201cradio stations swapped Blue Oyster Cult for speeches by Ayatollah Khomeini.\u201d<\/p>\n

Elsewhere, a civil war raged in Lebanon. Kashmir was becoming more dangerous. The landscape was changing. In 2001, the Taliban blew up the Bamiyan Buddhas.<\/p>\n

The hippies, in so many ways a reaction to war, had their trail destroyed by it.<\/p>\n\n

\"Buddha\"
A Buddha of Bamiyan, before and after its demolition.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

For What It’s Worth<\/h3>\n

Some don\u2019t see the hippies as victims of a changing world, but the agents of change themselves. It\u2019s easy to see their legacy in today\u2019s backpackers. And the very proliferation of cheap flights that would one day overwhelm the still-peaceful hippie hotspots means that budget travel still thrives today.<\/p>\n

Others have gone so far as to blame the traveling hippies themselves for the revolutionary changes in Afghanistan, with one travel writer, Bruce Chatwin<\/a>, claiming that the mass of freaks, and their ostentatiously signaled countercultural values, drove the people \u201cinto the arms of the Marxists,\u201d an argument summed up<\/a> as a chain of dominoes leading to the 1978 coup, the Soviet invasion, and on and on to the American invasion.<\/p>\n\n

If that seems extreme, it probably is. The hippies couldn\u2019t overhaul society in America, and they couldn\u2019t overhaul the world. Hunter S. Thompson, in a memorable passage from Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas<\/em>, suggested the end of their usefulness might have come as early as 1966, the “high-water mark” when “the wave finally broke and rolled back.\u201d The hippies had their limits, their restrictions, their downsides.<\/p>\n

But, as a symbol of the intrepid traveler, searching out the journey for journey’s sake, living freely at the mercy of the road? As the embodiment of an ethos that strives for making connections through authenticity and openness? As a reminder of the cultural gifts of the Middle East, and a testament to what’s been lost there to the ravages of war, ignorance, and extremism?<\/p>\n

They\u2019re about as good as it gets.<\/p>\n\n
\n
\n

Interested in learning more? Check out Sharif Gemie and Brian Ireland\u2019s The Hippie Trail: A History<\/a><\/em>, from which much of this article was sourced.<\/em><\/p>\n\n

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