{"id":69878,"date":"2019-07-12T17:45:27","date_gmt":"2019-07-12T21:45:27","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/magazine.tablethotels.com\/en\/?p=69878"},"modified":"2023-03-29T10:52:48","modified_gmt":"2023-03-29T14:52:48","slug":"at-the-crossroads","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/magazine.tablethotels.com\/en\/2019\/07\/at-the-crossroads\/","title":{"rendered":"At the Crossroads"},"content":{"rendered":"

Laurent Vernhes, Tablet’s co-founder and CEO, recently visited the former Soviet republic of Georgia, where he discovered unique wines, incredible mountains, and a country that is finally getting the attention it deserves.<\/em><\/h4>\n

Every year I take one of my kids on a one-on-one trip, just the two of us, on a rotating basis. They pick the destination, and the only rule is that it has to be somewhere I\u2019ve never been, so that we arrive on an equal footing, start from scratch, and experience the steepest possible learning curve together. This year was my teenage son S\u00e9bastien\u2019s turn, and he chose the former Soviet republic of Georgia. So I have my son to thank not only for the fact that I finally got to see this extraordinary corner of the world, but also for the fact that I remember the trip at all. Georgian people are passionate hosts who seem to enjoy nothing more than letting the wine and the chacha<\/em> \u2014\u00a0shots of Georgian brandy \u2014\u00a0flow freely, punctuating the nights with singing and delirious toasts. It would have been irresistible if my son hadn\u2019t been there to keep me away from trouble.<\/p>\n

\"Mountain
Stepantsminda and Mount Kazbek<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

As the co-founder of a travel company, I\u2019m often asked to predict the next \u201chot\u201d destination. I spend most of my time in the world\u2019s great cities \u2014 I live in one of them \u2014 so I must say that when it comes to getting away, my priority is to escape the crowds and the hype and take a chance on a long-ignored destination. Even in the age of Instagram there is still a seemingly endless supply of such places. Georgia is now open to foreign travel in a way that it simply hasn\u2019t been during my lifetime. Its gradual \u2014 and still ongoing \u2014 emergence from the shadow of the Soviet and Russian domination seems to me a clear-cut case of one of the world\u2019s most interesting places finally getting the global recognition it\u2019s always deserved.<\/p>\n

In fact the relationship with Russia just got more complicated. An ongoing political dispute<\/a> has escalated to the point where Russia has stopped its airlines from flying to Tbilisi, effectively cutting the country off from a large fraction of its inbound tourism. So if there were ever a time when Georgia needs visitors from overseas \u2014 and arguably an optimal time to go \u2014 this is it.<\/p>\n

\"Church\"
Gergeti Trinity Church<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Geographically it\u2019s at a literal crossroads, albeit with some of the most treacherous mountain roads anywhere. Georgians take pride in their reputation as great warriors, but they were conquered at various times by the Persian, Turkish, Arab, Mongol, and Russian civilizations. A most impressive list. Until recently, it had been independent only for a brief time during the 13th century, an era that lives on in the Georgian memory as the country\u2019s golden age. Georgian history and its identity are intimately bound up in the local version of Orthodox Christianity, which is distinct from both the Russian version and the version practiced in neighboring Armenia. But it\u2019s a real cross-cultural experience \u2014 if you were brought here blindfolded and weren’t standing in front of one of their characteristic churches, you would have real trouble identifying whether you were in Europe, Asia, or somewhere else altogether. And there\u2019s something for everyone here, from adventuring in the Caucasus mountains to the food and wine scene in Tbilisi, which is paradise for the adventurous eater and drinker.<\/p>\n

First, the mountains. The Caucasus range runs across the entire length of the country, covering as much ground as the Alps, but reaching much higher, and towering even more dramatically over their surroundings. The skiing and snowboarding, naturally, are incredible, and S\u00e9bastien and I spent some spectacular days on the slopes in Gudauri<\/a>. If you\u2019re interested in mountains in any capacity, Georgia has got to be on your list.<\/p>\n

\"Caucasus
Caucasus Mountains<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We also visited the Stalin Museum<\/a>, in the city of Gori, where he was born. It\u2019s not really a monument to Stalin himself anymore, but something much more interesting: a museum of a museum. They\u2019ve left everything precisely as it was in 1989, and although it was definitely a post-Stalin Soviet monument, it now feels like an ironic comment on propaganda and the layered falsification of history. I\u2019ve never seen anything like it.<\/p>\n

Not satisfied with having the tallest mountains in Europe (depending on where you put the border with Asia), Georgia also claims to have the world\u2019s oldest wine culture, and the latest archaeological evidence backs up this claim, dating the earliest Georgian wines at around 8,000 BC, beating Armenia by a couple of millennia on the latest count. The countryside is dotted with a vast number of vineyards, growing something like 500 varieties of native grapes. Tbilisi has more wine shops than Paris, by far. Good wines are always about the story behind them. As a wine-obsessed Frenchman, I embarked on an exploration of what these age-old traditions could extract from their native grapes.<\/p>\n

\"Stalin\"
Stalin Museum<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Many of the wines are the work of hobbyists \u2014 here almost everyone who lives in the countryside makes their own wine \u2014 and the professionally run vineyards weren’t exposed to international competition during Soviet times. I expected it would take a little time for my palate to adjust to a new range of tastes, but some of these bottles were immediately satisfying and soulful, including some sweet red wines and orange wines (produced through prolonged contact with the grape’s skin), an old tradition in Georgia that\u2019s recently become hip amongst innovative winemakers in western Europe. The most traditional local method involves fermenting the wine in amphores, or clay pots, instead of wooden casks or steel tanks. Even in France, where they\u2019re always looking for an edge in wine making, some trendy vineyards are using amphores now, but the Georgians are the masters of this method.<\/p>\n

\"Wall\"
Tbilisi street art<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Here are a few bottles to look out for in local stores and wine lists when you make it there: Giuaani \u201cPerle du Caucase\u201d Mtsvane Qvevri 2016, Lukasi Kisi 2014 & Saperavi 2015, Orgo Saperavi 2017, and Shumi Iberiuli Kindzmarauli Semi-sweet Premium 2017. And more widely, Chateau Mukhrani Saperavis is a big winery with extensive distribution, whose wines are more predictable but still high-quality.<\/p>\n

The less impressive Georgian wines can be an acquired taste, but they benefit from being paired with Georgian food \u2014 which is another excellent reason to visit. Any country with such a variety of cultural influences can\u2019t help but have a unique local cuisine. Georgia\u2019s delights include many Middle Eastern flavors, delicious giant pork dumplings courtesy of the Mongols, and bread which comes in many forms, from naan-like to pizza-like, and rarely disappoints. The staple khachapuri, a sort of heavy-duty sauceless pizza with several types of cheese and sometimes an egg on top, is strangely addictive.<\/p>\n

\"Tbilisi\"
Tbilisi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We ate incredibly well, thanks to a few restaurant recommendations by my friend Emily and a few lucky discoveries of our own. Cafe Leila, in Tbilisi\u2019s old town, is a delicious vegetarian restaurant, and Culinarium is a fancier option, where Chef Tekuna is bringing modern Georgian cuisine out of the shadow of the Soviet era. And a great restaurant with an equally great name is Pheasant\u2019s Tears, in Sighnaghi, in the Kakheti wine region \u2014 if you\u2019re there, it\u2019s a must-visit restaurant, and is attached to a winery.<\/p>\n

Another excellent restaurant which we stumbled upon is Caf\u00e9 Stamba, located in the hotel of the same name. Which brings us around to the hospitality scene. Tablet\u2019s hotels in Georgia come from three different brands, but they\u2019re all the work of a single hotelier, Valeri Chekheria, a talented businessman who also seems motivated above all by the desire to be a good host. It would be easy to compare Fabrika in Tbilisi to the Freehand hotels, with their hostel-like vibe, co-working lobby and their bunk-bed rooms. The Rooms hotels are perhaps comparable to the Ace hotels, and Stamba, in Tbilisi, is a more high-end boutique hotel. But they\u2019re not knockoffs or imitations. Rooms Tbilisi isn\u2019t just cool for Georgia, it\u2019s cool, period. It would more than stand its own in Brooklyn, whose spirit was the admitted influence, and the service is in a whole different class.
\n

<\/div>\n

Stamba Hotel<\/h2>\n

Tbilisi, Georgia<\/h5>\n

\"Stamba<\/a><\/p>\n

Stamba occupies a classic Thirties building, once home to a famous publishing house, and the building\u2019s post-industrial patina gives it a visual identity all its own \u2014 along with surreal flourishes, like the trees that grow through the five-story central atrium. The rooms go all in on retro style, with leather headboards, brass fixtures, and weathered textures, and while they\u2019re unpretentious, they\u2019re possessed of more than a touch of luxury.<\/p>\n

\t<\/a>\n\t\n

 <\/p>\n

<\/div>\n

Rooms Hotel Tbilisi<\/h2>\n

Tbilisi, Georgia<\/h5>\n

\"Rooms<\/a><\/p>\n

Rooms occupies another wing of the same one-time publishing house, but the vibe is less industrial chic: faded Persian rugs and colorful vintage pieces add a lived-in feel. After you\u2019ve had your fill of traditional Georgian wines at the Bar Room, retire to your guest room, where wide wood-planked floors, velvet throws, handmade wallpaper, old-fashioned writing desks, leather headboards, and glowing chandeliers warm up minimal spaces once characterized by cold steel, iron and glass.<\/p>\n

\t<\/a>\n\t\n

 <\/p>\n

<\/div>\n

Rooms Hotel Kazbegi<\/h2>\n

Stepantsminda, Georgia<\/h5>\n

\"Rooms<\/a><\/p>\n

The Caucasus range is an extraordinary natural wonder, and here the architecture draws on the style of a traditional mountain lodge \u2014 airy, open spaces, floor-to-ceiling windows, cozy leather sofas \u2014 but there\u2019s a modern and sustainably minded twist, with furnishings by Restoration Hardware and the Belgian label Flamant. Native wood, exposed brick, vintage carpets, clean lines and retro-inspired light fixtures and barstools, books to page through, globes to spin: this isn\u2019t your grandfather\u2019s cottage in the mountains.<\/p>\n

\t<\/a>\n\t\n

 <\/p>\n

<\/div>\n

Fabrika Tbilisi<\/h2>\n

Tbilisi, Georgia<\/h5>\n

\"Fabrika<\/a><\/p>\n

Fabrika follows a concept that\u2019s familiar enough to anyone who\u2019s seen these hotels \u2014 part boutique hotel, part hostel, part multi-purpose events space, a hotel where the social life takes precedence over traditional conceptions of luxury. The building, a Soviet-era textile factory, is a utilitarian concrete structure, and the exterior has been left more or less alone, graffiti and all. It\u2019s in the interior that the architects earned their pay, transforming a drab space into something vibrant and welcoming.<\/p>\n

\t<\/a>\n\t\n

 <\/p>\n

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