{"id":69748,"date":"2019-05-31T15:45:59","date_gmt":"2019-05-31T19:45:59","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/magazine.tablethotels.com\/en\/?p=69748"},"modified":"2023-03-29T10:52:52","modified_gmt":"2023-03-29T14:52:52","slug":"killing-it","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/magazine.tablethotels.com\/en\/2019\/05\/killing-it\/","title":{"rendered":"Killing It"},"content":{"rendered":"

Twice the pinnacle of American tourism, the Catskills have ebbed and flowed in popularity over the past couple of centuries. But the cradle of modern comedy is standing up once again \u2014 for the same reasons as always.<\/em><\/h4>\n

Killing<\/em> used to mean something quite different in the Catskills. Back in its Borscht Belt heyday, comedians like Mel Brooks, Henny Youngman, and Lenny Bruce killed by making audiences howl with laughter. Nowadays, it\u2019s the small businesses and rejuvenated hotels that are making a killing by hosting a new generation of guests.<\/p>\n

Today, modern visitors to the Catskills come in search of the same things as those travelers from the past: good, clean country. They head north from New York City loaded into cars and trains and, with each passing minute, the air around them clears and the space outside opens wide.<\/p>\n

After an hour, they\u2019re in a different world. After two, they\u2019re in the Catskills.<\/p>\n

\"Early
Thomas Cole’s “A View of the Two Lakes and Mountain House, Catskill Mountains, Morning” (1844).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Early Tourism in the Catskills<\/h3>\n

By the early 19th century, New York City was such a disgusting cesspool of human sewage and pollution, \u201ctravelers frequently declared they could smell the city two or three miles away,\u201d according to Stephen Silverman’s The Catskills: Its History and How It Changed America<\/em>. With a quote like that ringing in your nose, you can imagine why the region’s most famous resort \u2014 the Catskill Mountain House<\/a> \u2014 became such a hit.<\/p>\n

The hotel, with its grand white columns and staggering mountain views, represents one of the most significant landmarks in the history of luxury hotels. Its 1824 opening marked the era that \u201cvacation\u201d itself became a known quantity in America, one soon decried by Sunday sermons as \u201cequated with financial and spiritual decay.\u201d<\/p>\n

Undaunted by that savage review, the Catskills drew American royalty to its wilderness tableau. The Mountain House itself boasted visits by everyone from American presidents to Mark Twain and Alexander Graham Bell. Lauded as it was, the Mountain House eventually succumbed to competition from other grand hotels and, as the pattern goes, to a newly trendier destination, the Adirondacks.<\/p>\n

But another scene lurked around the corner, ready to usher in the Catskills Golden Age.<\/p>\n

\"Sid
Comics Sid Caesar and Jerry Lewis both got started at the Catskills resorts.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The Borscht Belt<\/h3>\n

The earlier Catskills hospitality scene had shunned Jews. Now, spurred by an influx of Jewish immigrants from Eastern Europe, hundreds of Jewish-owned hotels welcomed them, entertained them, and (mostly) fed them, peaking in the 1950s. We know it as the Borscht Belt, but there\u2019s plenty of other delightful nicknames.<\/p>\n

The Jewish Alps (meh). La Kvell Epoch (good). The Sour Cream Sierras (best).<\/p>\n

These new guests needed entertaining, and the hotels, competing for their clients\u2019 attention, inadvertently gave roots to American comedy. Among the earliest forms of entertainment at the Jewish resorts was the \u201ctummler,\u201d a gig that originally arose in the shtetls of Eastern Europe. Back in the old country, according to Silverman’s history of the Catskills, a tummler was an \u201citinerant Jewish funnyman who was hired to amuse guests at weddings.\u201d In the Borscht Belt, according to former tummler<\/a> Mel Brooks, it was \u201ca resident offstage entertainer at a Jewish mountain resort, mostly after lunch.\u201d<\/p>\n

To get an idea of the type of gags they pulled off, here\u2019s Mel Brooks remembering one bit:<\/p>\n

I walk out on the diving board wearing a black derby and a big black alpaca overcoat. I\u2019m carrying two suitcases filled with rocks. \u2018Business is terrible!\u2019 I yell. \u2018I can\u2019t go on!\u2019 And I jump in the pool. Big laughs \u2014 the Jews love it. But I don\u2019t laugh \u2014 because the suitcases weigh a ton and like a shot I go to the bottom. The overcoat soaks up 20 gallons of water instantly. I run out of air, but I can\u2019t lift the suitcases \u2013 and I can\u2019t leave them in the water. They\u2019re made of cardboard, in two minutes they\u2019ll dissolve, and I need them for tomorrow\u2019s act. God bless Oliver, that big goy! He was the lifeguard \u2014 Jews don\u2019t swim, remember? And every day he\u2019d do a little swan dive and haul me up.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

As the decades went on, what we recognize as today’s stand-up comedy came to the Catskills. As vaudeville died out, the type of fast-paced, setup-punchline<\/a> routines that developed in 20th-century New York City theaters found a home in the Catskills resorts. In some instances, vaudeville comics despairing over the popularity of radio found themselves suddenly in need of a live audience. And if the Catskills had anything, they had that.<\/p>\n

By the 1950s, comedy in the Catskills \u201cwas a very established institution,” according<\/a> to Jeremy Dauber, a professor of Yiddish culture. “Like in the vaudeville circuits or in baseball, you had bigger leagues and smaller leagues, and you were either playing at the big hotels or the small hotels and you could work your way up.\u201d<\/p>\n

While the older comics had come ready to entertain, greats like Sid Caesar, Henny Youngman, and Jerry Lewis got started here. Over time, all the legends would come through. Lenny Bruce, Jackie Mason, Bill Cosby, Billy Crystal, Don Rickles, Milton Berle, Joan Rivers, and a young Jerry Seinfeld. They all played the Catskills. Some as stars, others as starters, cutting their teeth on Borscht before the Ed Sullivan show.<\/p>\n

https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=KVGVJGX–o0<\/a><\/p>\n

The Kvell Epoch ended around 1965. First the Adirondacks had sunk the Catskill Mountain House, now it was affordable air travel. Among other factors. Jewish families moved to the suburbs, where a rural escape didn\u2019t feel as crucial to summer survival. The Civil Rights Act of 1964 outlawed officially anti-Semitic hotels. And, just the way it goes, the new generation didn\u2019t go for it.<\/p>\n

But the impact had been made. As Dauber put it, \u201cthe Borscht Belt was represented in the DNA of American performance comedy in many deep ways for the next 20 or 30 years.\u201d In terms of sheer creative influence, American comedy will always owe it a debt.<\/p>\n

\"General
The Catskills’ timeless attraction.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The Current Trends<\/h3>\n

The Phoenicia diner. Summer 2018. I looked up from my crab cake BLT to see a man in a greased handlebar mustache. Squeezed in the booth with him, a lady in a khaki jumpsuit. Behind them, a family of five \u2014 stroller in the aisle \u2014 each dressed in their own choice of plaid, right down to the baby spitting up on her own trendy jumpsuit. Around me, hats jaunted out at every angle.<\/p>\n

And I thought to myself: am I back in Brooklyn?<\/p>\n

I wasn\u2019t the first Jew to think it.<\/p>\n

The Catskills, by sheer geography, always seem to absorb the prevailing trends from New York City. The region’s making news again now<\/a> as people from the city look, as they always have, for a place to escape it.<\/p>\n

As the Borscht Belt fizzled and died, new visitors rediscovered its charms.<\/p>\n

\"Eastwind
The fire pits at Eastwind Hotel & Bar, a resort with a high-design summer-camp vibe.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The New York Times has written of \u201cinstant communities<\/a>\u201d forming in places like Sullivan County, where the relocation of one family from Brooklyn caused a chain migration, a close-knit group of friends and family moving, one after another, to a town that already had the types of trendy bookstores and coffee shops you might better expect in Brooklyn Heights. Actually, make that bookstore and coffee shop. Trendy, yes, but still a small town.<\/p>\n

Today, that\u2019s part of the appeal for new residents and tourists alike, with the hospitality scene in the Catskills reflecting the influx of former city dwellers. The Graham & Co.<\/a>, whose four owners in the design field started their boutique in the Catskills while retaining their lives in Brooklyn. The Roxbury<\/a>, meanwhile, sports vibrant and contemporary design themes that mix with the retro. On that note, the history of the place is never out of mind. Spots like Eastwind<\/a> and the Roundhouse<\/a>, in nearby Hudson Valley, actually repurpose structures left over from the region’s long past to create their own stylish boutiques. And, similar to the Mountain House, recently renovated Troutbeck<\/a> once hosted legends like Ralph Waldo Emerson and Henry David Thoreau.<\/p>\n

In a place where tourism has always seemed to boom and bust, the Catskills hope to prove it’s once again standing up.<\/p>\n

Interested in learning more? Check out Raphael Silver and Stephen Silverman’s The Catskills: Its History and How It Changed America<\/a><\/em>, from which much of this article was sourced.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"Pool
The pool at the Graham & Co, a renovated twenty-room motor lodge in Phoenicia.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The Hotels: The Catskills and Beyond<\/h3>\n

The Catskills and the neighboring Hudson Valley make an ideal summer destination. Though the city is just a two-hour drive away, the difference in pace and style \u2014 despite the recent influx of city dwellers \u2014 between upstate New York and the metropolis cannot be overstated.
\n

<\/div>\n

The Graham & Co<\/h2>\n

Catskill Mountains<\/h5>\n

\"The<\/a><\/p>\n

A renovated twenty-room motor lodge in Phoenicia, just west of Woodstock, the Graham & Co. is the sort of place that might qualify as central New York State\u2019s best-kept secret, if only people would stop raving about it for a second. Vintage charm, a savvy collector\u2019s eye, and a keen design sensibility make city-bred boutique-hotel freaks feel right at home, while free bikes, patchy cell service and a trumped-up Catskills vs. Hamptons rivalry help you get in a mood to properly unplug.<\/p>\n

\t<\/a>\n\t\n

<\/div>\n

The Roxbury<\/h2>\n

Catskill Mountains<\/h5>\n

\"The<\/a><\/p>\n

The Roxbury breaks the mold a bit \u2014 the colonial house might put you in mind of a bed and breakfast, and the adjoining motel building is a low-profile pre-modernist classic. Rooms, however, are anything but traditional, with design themes that range from the vibrant and contemporary to the flamboyantly retro. The idea here, clearly, is not minimalism but a sort of maximalism, throwing the usual boutique clich\u00e9s out the window.<\/p>\n

\t<\/a>\n\t\n

<\/div>\n

The Dutchess<\/h2>\n

Staatsburg<\/h5>\n

\"The<\/a><\/p>\n

Before you fire off that email, let us assure you that Dutchess is indeed spelled with a T, in the manner of upstate New York\u2019s Dutchess County. This Hudson Valley hideaway styles itself a \u201csecret hotel,\u201d and they do a pretty good job of keeping the details mum. It\u2019s a model that\u2019s meant to work via personal recommendations within a self-selecting community of travelers \u2014 kind of like Tablet, now that we think of it.<\/p>\n

\t<\/a>\n\t\n

<\/div>\n

Eastwind \u2014 Hotel & Bar<\/h2>\n

Windham<\/h5>\n

\"Eastwind<\/a><\/p>\n

Eastwind is co-owned by a German\/Lithuanian couple who saw a bit of his own childhood in the landscapes and lodges of upstate New York, and who redesigned this 1920s-era lodge (and its outlying A-frame cabins) with an eye toward Scandinavian modernist style. The result is a sort of high-design summer-camp vibe, with more than a touch of luxury \u2014 vintage furniture and Frette linens happily cohabitate here. It\u2019s a refreshingly unique vision.<\/p>\n

\t<\/a>\n\t\n

<\/div>\n

The Roundhouse<\/h2>\n

Beacon<\/h5>\n

\"The<\/a><\/p>\n

The very picture of the modern post-industrial luxury hotel, at the Roundhouse \u2014 its bones a thoroughly renovated old mill \u2014 sleek mid-century furniture sits underneath exposed concrete ceilings. A fifteen-minute walk from the Dia Art Foundation, the impressive contemporary art museum that made Beacon its home in 2003, it\u2019s the epitome of the region\u2019s pastoral charm mixed with contemporary arts.<\/p>\n

\t<\/a>\n\t\n

<\/div>\n

Troutbeck<\/h2>\n

Amenia<\/h5>\n

\"Troutbeck<\/a><\/p>\n

Troutbeck didn\u2019t just wake up one morning and decide to style itself a creative retreat \u2014 it\u2019s been walking the walk for well over a century, having welcomed Mark Twain, Ralph Waldo Emerson, and Henry David Thoreau, and many others along the way. And while this estate, in Amenia, two hours from Manhattan, has seen some changes over the years \u2014 the Century Lodge dates back to 1760, while the Manor House was added in 1919 \u2014 it\u2019s perhaps most remarkable for its continuity.<\/p>\n

\t<\/a>\n\t\n

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Twice the pinnacle of American tourism, the Catskills have ebbed and flowed in popularity over the past couple of centuries. But the cradle of modern comedy is standing up once again \u2014 for the same reasons as always.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":58,"featured_media":69840,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3594],"tags":[3583,3584,3218,3478,3317,3531,3595],"thb-sponsors":[],"class_list":["post-69748","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-travel-history","tag-catskills","tag-hudson-valley","tag-new-york","tag-new-york-city","tag-travel-guide","tag-travel-guides","tag-travel-history"],"acf":{"new_subtitle":"Subtitle","property_id":null},"yoast_head":"\nThe Catskills Are Killing It \u2014 The Agenda by Tablet Hotels<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/magazine.tablethotels.com\/en\/2019\/05\/killing-it\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"The Catskills Are Killing It \u2014 The Agenda by Tablet Hotels\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Twice the pinnacle of American tourism, the Catskills have ebbed and flowed in popularity over the past couple of centuries. 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