{"id":62198,"date":"2017-09-22T15:22:17","date_gmt":"2017-09-22T19:22:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/magazine.tablethotels.com\/en\/?p=62198"},"modified":"2024-11-21T10:25:32","modified_gmt":"2024-11-21T15:25:32","slug":"this-must-be-the-place","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/magazine.tablethotels.com\/en\/2017\/09\/this-must-be-the-place\/","title":{"rendered":"This Must Be the Place"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"wpb-content-wrapper\">[vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]\n<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/static.prod.r53.tablethotels.com\/media\/ecs\/global\/magazine\/story-images\/20240302\/ElCosmico.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"970\" height=\"auto\" border=\"0\" data-gae=\"Magazine, Clicked, Image\" \/><\/p>\n<h4><em>A closer look at a curious town, a one-of-a-kind hotel, and a journey that&#8217;s not as simple as it seems.<\/em><\/h4>\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_separator style=&#8221;dashed&#8221; css=&#8221;&#8221;][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column width=&#8221;1\/12&#8243;]<aside class=\"gap cf\" style=\"height:10px;\"><\/aside><a class=\"image_link\" href=\"https:\/\/magazine.tablethotels.com\/en\/author\/markfedeli\/\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"200\" height=\"198\" src=\"https:\/\/magazine.tablethotels.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/mark-small-circle-2.png\" class=\"thb_image  left  retina_size attachment-full\" alt=\"\" title=\"mark small circle\" \/><\/a><aside class=\"gap cf\" style=\"height:10px;\"><\/aside>[\/vc_column][vc_column width=&#8221;11\/12&#8243;]<aside class=\"gap cf\" style=\"height:10px;\"><\/aside>[vc_column_text css=&#8221;.vc_custom_1720455088433{background-color: #ffffff !important;}&#8221;]\n<p style=\"font-size: 14px;\"><strong>By <a href=\"https:\/\/magazine.tablethotels.com\/en\/author\/markfedeli\/\">Mark Fedeli<\/a><\/strong><br \/>\n<em>Marketing and Editorial Director, Tablet Hotels<\/em><\/p>\n[\/vc_column_text]<aside class=\"gap cf\" style=\"height:10px;\"><\/aside>[\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_separator style=&#8221;dashed&#8221; css=&#8221;&#8221;]<aside class=\"gap cf\" style=\"height:40px;\"><\/aside>[\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]\n<p>Sometimes you just need to get out of the city. The crowds, the congestion, the options \u2014 it gets oppressive, and you need a break from the noise. Sometimes you need a place like Marfa, even if Marfa doesn&#8217;t need you.<\/p>\n<p>City life assaults from the outside, heaping itself upon you. But out in the high desert of West Texas everything stands back, gives space, and asks you to work from the inside. <em>What can you bring to this?<\/em> It&#8217;s a lovely challenge. I was most interested in what Liz Lambert and the Bunkhouse hotel gang had brought; their contribution is <a style=\"text-decoration: underline;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.tablethotels.com\/en\/marfa-hotels\/el-cosmico\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">El Cosmico<\/a>, a collection of unique lodgings so perfectly suited to their surroundings you could almost imagine them having been there forever.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright\" style=\"padding-bottom: 10px;\" src=\"https:\/\/static.prod.r53.tablethotels.com\/media\/ecs\/global\/magazine\/story-images\/092417\/Small.jpg\" alt=\"El Cosmico - Marfa Texas\" width=\"330\" height=\"auto\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Those surroundings? Marfa, Texas: a single-stoplight town that&#8217;s hundreds of miles from anything, on the way to nothing. It&#8217;s reached near-mythical status as an outpost of creativity and pilgrimage point for anyone who loves art and Americana (or follows <a style=\"text-decoration: underline;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/nDaZ5hPwzb\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Beyonc\u00e9<\/a> on Instagram). Marfa first gained notoriety when Elizabeth Taylor and James Dean rolled in to film <em>Giant<\/em> in 1956. It grew in stature during the &#8217;70s and &#8217;80s when artist Donald Judd chose it as his working retreat from New York City, then as home for his large-scale contemporary art museum, the Chinati Foundation.<\/p>\n<p>Now, it&#8217;s a household name.<\/p>\n<p>Despite the fashionable history, Marfa is not luxurious or glamorous, nor is it as much the &#8220;place to be&#8221; as you might think. It simply is. And thankfully, so is El Cosmico.<\/p>\n<p>To paraphrase Voltaire, Marfa is the kind of place that, if it didn&#8217;t exist, would have to be invented. That&#8217;s basically what Judd set out to do all those years ago, giving this small spot on the map an identity that helped transform it into a major center of influence. And it&#8217;s basically what Liz Lambert is doing with El Cosmico, creating the kind of hotel that reaffirms Tablet&#8217;s entire mission.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/static.prod.r53.tablethotels.com\/media\/ecs\/global\/magazine\/story-images\/092417\/ElCosmico-1.jpg\" alt=\"El Cosmico Hotel \u2014 Marfa, Texas\" width=\"970\" height=\"auto\" border=\"0\" data-gae=\"Magazine, Clicked, Image\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/static.prod.r53.tablethotels.com\/media\/ecs\/global\/magazine\/story-images\/092417\/Elcosmico-8.jpg\" alt=\"El Cosmico Hotel \u2014 Marfa, Texas\" width=\"970\" height=\"auto\" border=\"0\" data-gae=\"Magazine, Clicked, Image\" \/> <\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/static.prod.r53.tablethotels.com\/media\/ecs\/global\/magazine\/story-images\/092417\/ElCosmico-4.jpg\" alt=\"El Cosmico Hotel Marfa Texas\" width=\"970\" height=\"auto\" border=\"0\" data-gae=\"Magazine, Clicked, Image\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/static.prod.r53.tablethotels.com\/media\/ecs\/global\/magazine\/story-images\/092417\/Elcosmico-9.jpg\" alt=\"El Cosmico Hotel \u2014 Marfa, Texas\" width=\"970\" height=\"auto\" border=\"0\" data-gae=\"Magazine, Clicked, Image\" \/> <\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/static.prod.r53.tablethotels.com\/media\/ecs\/global\/magazine\/story-images\/092417\/ElCosmico-5.jpg\" alt=\"El Cosmico Hotel Marfa Texas\" width=\"970\" height=\"auto\" border=\"0\" data-gae=\"Magazine, Clicked, Image\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/static.prod.r53.tablethotels.com\/media\/ecs\/global\/magazine\/story-images\/092417\/Elcosmico-7.jpg\" alt=\"El Cosmico Hotel \u2014 Marfa, Texas\" width=\"970\" height=\"auto\" border=\"0\" data-gae=\"Magazine, Clicked, Image\" \/> <\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 970px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/static.prod.r53.tablethotels.com\/media\/ecs\/global\/magazine\/story-images\/092417\/Elcosmico-6.jpg\" alt=\"El Cosmico Hotel \u2014 Marfa, Texas\" width=\"970\" height=\"auto\" border=\"0\" data-gae=\"Magazine, Clicked, Image\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\"><em>Book <a style=\"text-decoration: underline;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.tablethotels.com\/en\/marfa-hotels\/el-cosmico\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">El Cosmico<\/a> on Tablet Hotels.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>El Cosmico sits on a modest plot of land at the outskirts of town. Empty fields stretch as far as the eye can see, mountains beyond that, endless sky all above. At night you get the Milky Way in stereo. But the real star attractions are the vintage Airstream trailers \u2014 they stand like kings, proudly restored to their former splendor.<\/p>\n<p>Hotels aren&#8217;t always the best at describing themselves, but El Cosmico accurately characterizes their Airstreams as &#8220;an armada afloat on a vast sea of desert.&#8221; They&#8217;re also a damn good time, and if you stay in one, it doesn&#8217;t take long for it to feel like your new home, and a direct extension of yourself. With the average hotel room, you can easily start feeling boxed up in someone else&#8217;s world. With El Cosmico, the world is yours.<\/p>\n<p>The trailers are classic works of design, and they benefit from a cautious restoration that doesn&#8217;t try to make them more than they ever were. They&#8217;re left with an austere beauty that brings to mind Marfa&#8217;s other desert armada: Donald Judd&#8217;s concrete boxes.<\/p>\n<p>Mr. Judd famously disagreed that his art was minimalist, calling it &#8220;the simple expression of complex thought.&#8221; That sounds about right for El Cosmico, too. The Airstreams and other accommodations (including tents, tepees, and yurts) are perfectly sparse and free of needless things. What they have instead is an eager presence that takes you quickly back to the road trips and roadside attractions of the mid-century American West \u2014 a vanished moment that still has a firm grip on the national consciousness.<\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 970px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/static.prod.r53.tablethotels.com\/media\/ecs\/global\/magazine\/story-images\/092417\/DonaldJudd.jpg\" alt=\"Donald Judd Marfa Texas\" width=\"970\" height=\"auto\" border=\"0\" data-gae=\"Magazine, Clicked, Image\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Donald Judd &#8220;<a style=\"text-decoration: underline;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.chinati.org\/collection\/donaldjudd2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">15 Untitled Works in Concrete<\/a>&#8220;<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Cynics could accuse all this of being the hipstery re-purposing of the past. To them I caution: the abyss gazes also into you. These connections to a bygone era are not merely aspirational. It was a slower, simpler time, and Marfa is a slower, simpler town. It&#8217;s a place that&#8217;s proud to exist in the middle of nowhere, with a very real edge that could be intimidating to outsiders expecting something a bit more touristy. Instead of rushing to open the gates for the oncoming hordes, Marfa straddles the line between welcoming and withdrawn, careful to preserve its authenticity.<\/p>\n<p>Similarly, while El Cosmico is nothing if not hospitable, it&#8217;s no nostalgia theme park. Much like the region it calls home, this is a hotel that&#8217;s made better by what guests bring to it. Traditional amenities may not be found in abundance, but if you check in with a spirit of adventure and community, you&#8217;ll be rewarded with an experience far richer than anything flatscreens or fancy linens could provide. It&#8217;s all part of what feels like a constant exchange of energy between El Cosmico, Marfa, and their visitors \u2014 each side uplifted by the others&#8217; imagination and ingenuity.<\/p>\n<p>You&#8217;d be forgiven for not fully understanding how this tiny island in the desert became such a global destination. In fact, there are probably more reasons than you&#8217;d imagine for why so many people make the long trek out to Marfa. El Cosmico was more than enough to justify my trip, but the town&#8217;s complicated appeal existed long before the hotel.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/static.prod.r53.tablethotels.com\/media\/ecs\/global\/magazine\/story-images\/092417\/Train.jpg\" alt=\"Marfa Texas\" width=\"970\" height=\"auto\" border=\"0\" data-gae=\"Magazine, Clicked, Image\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/static.prod.r53.tablethotels.com\/media\/ecs\/global\/magazine\/story-images\/092417\/Turkeys.jpg\" alt=\"Marfa\" width=\"970\" height=\"auto\" border=\"0\" data-gae=\"Magazine, Clicked, Image\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/static.prod.r53.tablethotels.com\/media\/ecs\/global\/magazine\/story-images\/092417\/Garage.jpg\" alt=\"Marfa\" width=\"970\" height=\"auto\" border=\"0\" data-gae=\"Magazine, Clicked, Image\" \/><\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 970px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/static.prod.r53.tablethotels.com\/media\/ecs\/global\/magazine\/story-images\/092417\/Silos.jpg\" alt=\"Marfa Texas\" width=\"970\" height=\"auto\" border=\"0\" data-gae=\"Magazine, Clicked, Image\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In and around Marfa (Images courtesy of Ellie R. Levine)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Like its notorious <a style=\"text-decoration: underline;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.visitmarfa.com\/lights.php#\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Mystery Lights<\/a>, Marfa is a phenomenon that can be difficult to explain, which only adds to the allure. Sure, there are the obvious things that make the town iconic, like its art world connection or the Hollywood pedigree, but something unremarkable may be even more important: the distance.<\/p>\n<p>Being so detached has helped Marfa become a haven from the relentlessness of modern living. Being so remote has helped every journey toward it feel special; an achievement unlocked. If you talk to someone who&#8217;s been, they&#8217;re likely to spend as much time describing how they got there as describing what it was like once they arrived. The epic drive across West Texas is now as much a part of Marfa&#8217;s cultural significance as its <em>au courant<\/em> brand of rural urbanity.<\/p>\n<p>And that&#8217;s fitting. Donald Judd fled New York in search of a clean escape, and he found it in the vast, indifferent landscapes of the West. His quest is reflected in the countless road trips that launch each year in Marfa&#8217;s direction \u2014 hopeful passengers needing a break from the noise and seeking their own shot at absolution. For them, Marfa is just a place that&#8217;s far from other places. It&#8217;s somewhere to drive to, and somewhere to turn around from. And that&#8217;s all it needs to be.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<br \/>\n<em>Book <a style=\"text-decoration: underline;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.tablethotels.com\/en\/marfa-hotels\/el-cosmico\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">El Cosmico<\/a> on Tablet Hotels.<\/em><br \/>\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row]\n<div style=\"height:1px;border-top:3px double #ccc;margin-top:30px;margin-bottom:60px;display:block;clear:both\"><\/div>\n<h5><em>Mark Fedeli is the Marketing &amp; Editorial Director for Tablet Hotels. To learn more about Marfa, El Cosmico, and the annual Trans-Pecos Festival, a great <a style=\"text-decoration: underline;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.transpecosfilm.net\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">documentary<\/a> was released by Peter Gannon, a friend of Tablet. Watch the trailer below:<\/em><\/h5>\n<div class=\"flex-video widescreen vimeo\"><iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"Trans-Pecos Festival of Music + Love\" src=\"https:\/\/player.vimeo.com\/video\/222259092?dnt=1&amp;app_id=122963\" width=\"500\" height=\"281\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"autoplay; fullscreen; picture-in-picture; clipboard-write\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<div style=\"height:1px;border-top:3px double #ccc;margin-top:30px;margin-bottom:60px;display:block;clear:both\"><\/div>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Sometimes you need a place exactly like Marfa, even if Marfa doesn\u2019t exactly need you.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":53,"featured_media":98622,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3550,3643],"tags":[3639,3073,3642,3091,3188],"thb-sponsors":[],"class_list":["post-62198","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-commentary","category-hotel-spotlight","tag-commentary","tag-design","tag-hotel-spotlight","tag-road-trip","tag-travel-stories"],"acf":{"new_subtitle":"A Complicated Journey to Marfa, Texas","property_id":[{"id":"3371"}]},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>A Complicated Journey to Marfa, Texas \u2014 by Tablet Hotels<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, 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