It’s right there in the name. Blackberry Farm, in the Smoky Mountains of Tennessee, is among the region’s finest luxury hotels, but its centerpiece is a working farm — just about everything you’ll eat is made on site, from vegetables and herbs to cheese, jam, and even the wildflower honey produced by the farm’s colony of bees.
The French chef Alain Ducasse is no stranger to hospitality, but in L’Andana he’s at the top of both games: as a hotel it’s first-rate, and as a sort of Tuscan foodcraft Mecca, surrounded by acre upon acre of its own olive groves and vineyards, it’s well worth a pilgrimage.
Since 1981, when general manager Craig Bancroft took a chance on a young chef by the name of Nigel Haworth, Northcote has been all about the food — the Michelin-starred restaurant and cooking school focus on produce straight from the hotel’s garden, in traditional country-house style.
New York City isn’t exactly an agricultural wonderland, but Crosby Street makes the most of what it has. A Northcote-style kitchen garden occupies a rooftop, 12 stories above SoHo, and comes complete with a chicken coop, whose hens are known for laying distinctive pale-blue eggs.
California, on the other hand, is absolutely an agricultural wonderland, and Napa Valley’s Carneros Inn is proof. From the architecture to the name of the restaurant — FARM — it’s an homage to Napa Valley’s food-growing tradition. And they’re doing their part to keep it alive, growing produce in their own garden and producing their own breads, pastries, and charcuterie.
A visit to a ryokan is often, first and foremost, a meal made into a day-long ritual, where a room for the night, however impressive it is, is secondary. Even a modern ryokan like the Terence Conran–designed Niki Club does things the traditional way, serving natural and organic ingredients grown on-site and foraged from the surrounding forests.
Hôtel Mas de Peint is built around a 17th-century farmhouse, and it’s still a working farm as much as it is a hotel — primarily dedicated to growing the Camargue region’s distinctive red rice. This is also ranch country, so expect some local beef, and the proximity of the Mediterranean means fresh seafood is never far from the table.
Meanwhile Lime Wood is the dictionary definition of farm-to-table. Here Angela Hartnett and Luke Holder bring an Italian influence to ingredients from the south of England. Produce and herbs are grown on site, an expert forager brings back the best wild ingredients from the New Forest, and the hotel’s own Smoke House cures salmon and charcuterie.
Surrounded by any number of growers and makers in New Zealand’s Hawke’s Bay, Cape Kidnappers has never had a problem sourcing intensely local ingredients — everything on the pastry menu is made from scratch. But now that they’ve planted their own garden, their “food miles” are perhaps better measured in feet and inches. First-timers, take note: if you’ve never had New Zealand lamb, you’re in for something special.
If you visit during ski season, when Quebec is blanketed in snow, you’ll scarcely believe it, but all of Le Germain’s fruits, vegetables, and herbs are grown in the hotel’s garden, and the honey is produced on-site by Le Germain’s industrious hives. What’s not made here is made nearby, including cheeses that give France a run for its money.